430 days

A new post, the first one of this year. I didn’t post anything on this blog for a couple of months. I’ll get back on that in a later post.

The scooter that this blog is partly about, I now have been driving for over a year. 430 days to be precise. Since the last post I realize more and more what a piece of crap it really is. It’s time for an upgrade, for a bigger bike in better condition. Problem is, I don’t have a motorcycle license and the instructors here speak Japanese only. Getting the license while on vacation in my home country is unfortunately not legally possible.Nevertheless, I’m studying the necessary vocabulary and hopefully I’ll drive something bigger before the end of the year.

The last post was about trouble with the bike, this one is too. There has been quite some lately. Until 3 weeks ago, the scooter was getting noisier every day. First it was still acceptable, later it became embarrassing when all the heads turned to this weird and noisy foreigner on his small red scooter. One time I was driving on a road near our house. On the other lane were some motorcycle gang members on their modified Harley’s. Those guys like being noisy. Well, their 1000 cc choppers were no match for my 50 cc Suzuki. Time to get it fixed.

I went to the workplace where I had bought it a year earlier. The place is run by a retired hobbyist, a very friendly man. He replaced my exhaust with a good secondhand one. I was amazed how quiet the bike became after.

Today I visited him again. My rear tire was flat, again. He pulled two sharp metal objects out that had penetrated it. A hole had been glued already in November, so I thought it would be better to get a new tire. He did that for just 5000 yen, including labor. That’s about a third of the price the shop in the city where I had gotten a new front tire would have charged me for the rear one.

Hopefully the bike won’t need any extra repairs for a while. I don’t want to have to replace it before I get my motorcycle license.

Anyway, it still is a very cheap ride. Here are some numbers.

  • Days I have it: 430
  • Kilometers driven on it by me: 4,970
  • Total spent on it, including purchase, insurance (3y), gas, engine oil, repairs and paint: 107,949 yen.
  • Total spent on parking: 0 yen
  • Cost per kilometer as far: 21.72 yen. (residual value bike = 0 yen)

It’s a piece of crap, but still cheaper and much more convenient and faster than public transport. If it doesn’t break down I can expect the costs per kilometer to go down even more.

Today’s advice: Find a hobbyist to do your repairs if you can’t do them yourself and find out what your form of transport costs per kilometer.

 

Police and Bike Insurance

Yesterday I got pulled over by the police. For the first time here in Japan.

My rear tire was flat. When driving in a straight line and not too fast the bike wasn’t difficult to control, but in corners the wheel tended to slip away. Also while accelerating it slipped to both sides. A police car happened to be driving behind me and the officer inside said something in Japanese through a speaker. I guess he wanted me to pull over, and I did.

Flat tire

One of them pointed at the tire, I said I knew and that I wanted to drive to the nearest gas station to put some air in it to get home. They were friendly and understanding, and first a little surprised that it really was my bike, but I had papers to prove it. Be sure to always carry your papers. Mine are plasticized. We had a little chat and they complimented me on my Japanese. One told me he was really happy that a foreigner wanted to live and work in Japan and learn the Japanese language.

a Japanese police car -picture from Wikipedia-

They asked me to empty my pockets in a plastic bag and one of the officers checked every little compartment of my wallet.

This seemed to be the standard procedure. So be sure not to have anything on you that you don’t want them to see, especially when your vehicle isn’t in top condition. If you do plan to carry contraband you should hide it behind the body panels of the scooter. I don’t recommend you to break the law, I’m only telling where they won’t look at a routine check.

Insurance

The officers then asked me some questions about the bike; where I had bought it, how much it had cost and why I didn’t have insurance. Hadn’t the bike shop told me I had to get insurance?

Earlier I had read or heard somewhere that for bikes up to 50cc insurance was not required. Apparently I was wrong. Every motorized vehicle in Japan needs to have third-party insurance. That’s the law. You’ll get a sticker on your number plate to prove you’re insured.

One of them called my wife, she must have been so surprised when she heard it was the police. Later she told me that she first had thought she had done something wrong. She told the officer that I had bought the bike by myself, and she hadn’t been there with me.

They let me go without a fine! Just a friendly warning. I had to walk the bike to a parking spot and I called my wife to pick me up.

I was home again just in time for my next lesson.

Lucky me

Later that day I read that driving any vehicle in Japan, including scooters, without insurance is punishable by either a fine of 500,000 yen (about 5,000 euro), one year in jail or loss of license! Pretty serious. People who do have insurance but no sticker that proves that on their bike can get a fine of 300,000 yen.

I then realized I had been really lucky. Fines here are no joking matter. It’s not like the time I got pulled over in the Philippines for not wearing a helmet and got a $3 fine, or the time in Thailand when I kept insisting that my Dutch car license really was an international license for both cars and motorbikes and they let me drive off.

First place I went today, after breakfast, was to the post office to buy insurance. For small bikes it’s not expensive. One year is about 7,000 yen, but if you buy three years at once it’s only about 11,000 yen.

When I had my sticker, I walked the bike to a repair shop. Both tires were flat. The mechanic could fix the rear one but had to replace the front one. It was about 12,000 yen. Unforeseen expenses never are a welcome surprise, but all in all it was still a much better deal than the half a million yen fine I had escaped from.

Message of the day: Make sure you have third-party insurance for your motorized vehicle in Japan and a sticker that proves it on your vehicle.

Arbitrage

Arbitrage, taking advantage of price differences, is not something only rich and clever businessmen can do. Ordinary people like you and me can do it just as well, in our own ways.

The value of money is different for everyone. There are two ways in which we can assign value to our money, first by observing how much effort or time it takes to make the money, and secondly by looking at what we can get for our money, the utility. While you’re reading this post, please forget for a moment your nominal income and the nominal cost of things, but think instead of how much utility your time can buy.

Traveling abroad

I recently went on a short holiday to the Philippines, the sunny island nation south of Japan. As most of you will now, prices in the Philippines are generally lower than in Japan. The utility local people can get for an hour of work may be similar. If you work in Japan, like me, you can get a lot more value for your money down there compared to here.

Just some examples. In my case 1 hour of work equals about ½ a night accommodation in a clean budget hotel in Japan. In the Philippines I can get at least 2 nights out of my hour.

  Philippines Japan
1 hour of work 12 beers in a bar 5 beers in a bar
1 hour of work 2 nights in a hotel ½ night in a hotel
1 hour of work 1 dive + equipment 1/3 dive + equipment
1 hour of work 600 km on overnight boat in 4p cabin 200 km on highway bus
1 hour of work Seafood buffet for 4 people Seafood buffet for 1 person

If I tried hard I could probably get even more value for my money, but simply deciding to have fun abroad instead of here was the main cost-saving factor.

It would not be a smart move for a person working in the Philippines to holiday in Japan, not if he wanted to something else than strolling around and reading books on park benches while sipping beers from vending machines. On the other hand, a Filipino could work abroad for some years, as many do, and then retire in his own country and enjoy a more comfortable lifestyle as he previously could. He would also still have the advantage of getting quoted local prices.

To get back to the chart, as you see, for every unit of utility you deny yourself in a country with above average costs, you can enjoy more units of utility in countries with below average costs. It makes a lot of sense to work in an ‘expensive’ country and spend in a ‘cheap’ country. If you want to increase your purchasing power, you could instead of trying to work harder, spend your money more wisely.

One of the most extreme examples is perhaps flying business class. Let’s say a business class ticket is 3 times as dear as an economy class ticket. That means you have to work 3 times as many hours for a little extra comfort. If economy would cost you 6 hours, business would cost you 12 hours extra, probably longer than the flight itself and longer than the time you would need to recover from the lack of comfort in economy. Also there’s a large loss in utility compared to spending those 12 hours on other things.

When to spend and when not

In ‘cheap’ countries, public transport usually costs next to nothing. Still, economically it doesn’t make sense to use it in most cases (I’m talking about transport within cities). Taking a bus might cost you 1 minute of work compared to 10 minutes for taking a taxi, BUT, the taxi is much more comfortable, easy to use and faster as well. If you add up the time you had to work for the fare and the time riding it together, the bus will be more expensive than the car.

In ‘expensive’ countries, the opposite is usually true. In some cases a ten minute walk will cost you actually less time (in work and travel time) than taking a two-minute subway ride. When I was earning minimum wage as student, hitchhiking 700 km through Germany took me less time than taking an express train and having to work for the ticket.

Smart shopping

Another thing you can do when you travel is to combine it with purchasing goods and services you were planning to get anyway. For example, a cheap haircut in Japan is about 1000 Yen or 10 Euros. In the Philippines that would be about 3 Euros, maybe even less. Vietnam is a good place to have your business shirts and suits tailor-made. The suits are quite decent, and they fit well (tailor-made) and are only half the price of a basic of-the-rack suit in a budget apparel store. Also, always get cigarettes in the duty-free shop before you fly home, even if you don’t smoke. It’s easy to make a small profit on it, worth maybe a day of budget traveling in India.

While staying at home

Apart from traveling there are many other ways in which you can improve utility, to get more value for your time. Take the scooter/ car comparison I’ve mentioned in earlier posts. Depending on whether you’re alone or have a family, the weather in your place, the vicinity of frequent destinations, congestion likelihood, etc. a scooter may be more or less useful than a car. But that is just the utility without looking at the cost.

I worked 9 hours to buy my scooter, and although I sometimes get a little wet, can’t carry much stuff and can’t drive over 55 km/h, I never have to pay for parking, easily drive through traffic jams and have better mileage than most cars. But I’ll be modest, let’s say my scooter only is 1/5th as useful as a simple car. That car may cost the people wanting to buy it no more than 45 hours of their time to still have the same utility as I have with my scooter.

The iPod + simple prepaid phone vs iPhone is another example. The first combination has in my opinion at least 80% of the utility of the latter, for maybe 20% of the total price. That means that iPod buyers enjoying the same income per hour as iPhone buyers get 4 times more utility for their time.

We all use this arbitrage principle already I believe, some more than others. I think that realizing the true cost of things at all times can really help us to get more value for our time. For me it was interesting to write this post, I hope it will be interesting for you to think about it at your next purchase.

The Senkaku Conflict

I don’t normally write about political matters on this blog, but recently there’s so much ado about the Sino-Japanese relations that I felt compelled to dedicate a post to it.

I’m off course talking about the disputed ownership of the Senkaku islands, a small group of uninhabited rocks located in the sea between Okinawa and mainland China, just north of Taiwan.

One of the rocks with its only true owner, mr. Albatross

The islands are in Japanese hands, but China and Taiwan also claim them. They have been disputed for many years, but the reason of the current conflict is the transfer of the ownership from a private Japanese family to the government of Japan.

Riots

When I turn on the TV here, I’m quite shocked when I see the demonstrations going on in China. People attack Japanese shops, burn down buildings, burn Japanese flags, destroy cars at Japanese dealerships, refuse Japanese customers and boycott Japanese goods. Some morons are even shouting that the Chinese airforce should nuke Tokyo.

Japanese reactions are more moderate, there are some demonstrations in the capital, but where I’m living life goes on as before.

Irrational

The behavior of the mobs on the streets of China is a great example of how irrational people can become. No-one marching and shouting along has probably been to those islands, nor ever plans to do so. No-one has family members living there, as the islands are uninhabited. On the other hand, most of them will have a job that depends on the health of the economy. Japanese-Chinese trade is worth 340 billion US Dollars a year. When Japanese companies close their doors in China, Chinese workers will lose their jobs. When Japanese companies move their factories from China to countries like Indonesia or Vietnam, Chinese workers will lose their jobs, Chinese customers will pay more for Japanese products and China will weaken her own economy while adding to the strength of those of the countries around her. When this conflict leads to a trade war, Chinese exports to Japan will decrease, hurting both Chinese workers and Japanese consumers. All in all, a very unfortunate scenario for the peoples of both nations, but especially to the Chinese.

Smart move rioters, holding up a picture of the man who killed a 100 million of his and your own people.

Chinese claims

Although in some distant past the rocks might have been visited by a Chinese traveler the Chinese claim doesn’t make much sense to me. The 1939 claim of the Third Reich on a part of Poland was, by all standards, much more valid. That area had been German in a more recent past and was still home to a rather large German population that was being discriminated against. By contrast, here are no Chinese people being mistreated. In fact, the islands are uninhabited and the couple of people who made an illegal landing last month were send back flying business class.

In my opinion there are two reasons why China claims these islands.

  1. Natural resources. Ownership of the islands includes ownership of the sea around it, which has lots of gas under it. The gas under that part of the sea is part of a larger gas field, stretching farther east, into undisputed Japanese waters. China will be able to suck all the gas from her part of the sea.
  2. The weird patriotard belief that everywhere on earth where once a Chinese person has set foot still belongs to China. This notion has a complete disregard for other peoples’ territorial integrity. The Chinese government fuels this sentiment through the schools, the media and by only allowing the official, but ludicrous map of China published, which include Taiwan and even the entire South Chinese Sea, up to a few miles off the coasts of Vietnam, Malaysia, Brunei and the Philippines.

There are even some Chinese nationalists who claim that Okinawa itself belongs to China, as the former Ryuku kingdom used to pay tribute to the Chinese emperor (never to the CCP), a couple of centuries ago. Using the same logic, one could argue that China actually belongs to Japan, to Britain or to Mongolia.

Solution

If the Chinese government really cared about the wellbeing of her citizens, she would urge them to stop rioting and worrying about some uninhabited rocks and start finding other ways to express their national pride. Instead of being angry and burning down their own cities, people could focus their energy on improving the quality of their products and making their country a greener and more pleasant place to live. Bullying neighbors about tiny islands will only harm already vulnerable relations and harm all the economies in the region.

Daisen

Daisen is a mountain on the north coast of West Japan that I’ve wanted to visit for a long time. Last week I didn’t have to teach nor marry people and the weather was nice, so I jumped on my scooter, which I had painted red a couple of days earlier.

The ride was pretty long, I got lost and ran out of fuel once. But well, travel finds its origin in the French word travail, which means terribly hard work. So it’s all part of the experience. It was a really hot day, but the wind was cool, so cool that I didn’t notice my arms and neck getting sunburned, but then it was too late already.

After a 2km long ride through a tunnel a mountain range appeared in the distance. The left one was Daisen – big mountain in Japanese. Approaching the mountain, the road became more exciting, winding up and down through a cool forest.

Coming out of the tunnel

I drove past the village where the hiking trail to the top started in need of some dinner and fuel. I got some in Yonago and turned around, towards the mountain. It was getting dark so I drove to one of the many vacant parking lots in the woods (high season is in winter, when people go skiing) and slept in my sleeping bag on the grass on the side. There were no lights and hardly any clouds, so I could enjoy a beautiful sky full of stars.

In Japan the weather is generally more predictable than in Western Europe and it rains a lot less. It’s also a really safe country. Two good reasons that make sleeping outside now and then an attractive alternative option.

The next morning I started the hike. Although the mountain isn’t that high -less than 2000m- I found it pretty hard. I should spend less time sitting and more time exercising. There was lots of shade on the lower part of the mountain and it wasn’t too hot. As I got higher, the view became better. In the distance I could see the town Yonago on the coast, the outline of the bay and of course the Sea of Japan. Honestly, although this mountain isn’t as famous or as high as Fuji-san, I found the view better.

Yonago and the Sea of Japan

Around the top it was foggy, something my sunburned arms didn’t object to as the shade-providing trees had made place for lower shrubs. Reaching the top of a mountain never disappoints, it’s a small victory on myself, on the thought to give in. It feels like I’ve done something useful, contributed something to my life.

Later I reached my scooter on the parking lot with shaking knees. The drive back was wonderful too, a long part of the road ran parallel to a beautiful river, with lots of green hills on both sides. The only trouble I had on the way back was a wasp who flew into my shorts and stung me on my leg. But well, it makes a nice anecdote too.

My little buddy is now red

Dangerous Names

As I told you before, when doing a wedding ceremony correctly pronouncing the couple’s names is the most important thing. At that moment, the moment of the Seiyaku, the wedding vow, the chapel is completely quiet. No piano, no singing, no talking. Complete silence and everyone is watching me and the couple closely. About a third of the people is filming this part, on their small camera’s and mobile phones. Then there’s often an official film crew shooting this part as well.

Names

When I take the vows, I have to look them in their eyes. I can’t just look at the script and read the names. It’s not that difficult, but a slip of the tongue can easily happen. Many Japanese names are very similar to each other. I might call a MasahiroMasahito, or vice versa, or a MikaMiki, or a JyuntaroShyuntaro. I’m not Japanese, so these names don’t come as naturally for me as for Japanese people. Most Japanese people would also mispronounce Rick as Likku or Theodore as Teodoa.

Although these mispronunciations are pretty bad and should be avoided. There still is a worse kind; saying a similar sounding word with a bad meaning.

For example, there’s the Japanese girl’s name Sayaka. Make it Sayaku and you call her “the worst”.

When the groom is called Shintaro, don’t call him Chintaro -penis boy. Recently I almost made the mistake of calling a mr. KazuakiKuzuaki. That means something like “shit person”. I went as far as Kuz, but then I corrected myself and said his full name again.

It’s pretty scary stuff, if you do make a mistake the couple can claim part of the money back and the wedding hall can refuse to pay my employer, who, in turn will not pay me and probably give me less weddings.

At the Seiyaku you’re about halfway through. After that, you can’t really make a serious mistake anymore.

Heat, Gas, Fruit and Doors

It’s Hot

It’s summer now and very hot and humid. The Japanese have a word for this weather: mushi-atsui. My skin quickly feels wet and sticky and these days I shower about three or four times a day. We just moved the school to the apartment next door, we didn’t call the gas company yet so there’s only cold water. But that’s fine with this weather.

I need as many clean shirts a day as showers, but that’s no problem. The old lady who used to live here left a practically new washing machine behind which is doing a good job for us.

My Two-wheeled Friend

Two days ago I had a wedding. When I left home I saw I was low on gas but I didn’t have time to fill up. Luckily I made it, on the way back I ran out though. Again, I was happy to be driving a scooter and not a car. That would have been a pain, stuck halfway on a bridge in your car. Not me, I took the bike on the sidewalk and walked ten minutes to the next gas station. I had it filled up and there I learned that the tank is exactly 6 liters. I’ve always kept track of how much I drove and how much gas I bought and since I got this bike my average kilometrage  is 21.5 kilometers a liter. That means I can drive about a 130 kilometers on a full tank. Good to know.

Fruit and Finance

Summertime is fruit time. This area is famous for its big and juicy white peaches. And they are very nice. We’re lucky to know some people with fruit trees in their gardens, because fruit isn’t cheap in Japan.

If you ever come to Japan, you’ll be surprised when you check out the prices of fresh fruit. A tray of 9 peaches is about 2500 yen, that’s over 25 euros at the current rate. A medium-sized watermelon goes for about the same price. A square watermelon with a ribbon around it will cost over a 100 euros.

Four times the price of a normal watermelon. Buying some boxes might be a good investment.

250 grams of strawberries are often around 4 or 5 euros. Apples usually cost between 1,20 and 4 euros. No, not for a kilo. Just a single apple.

The high prices are one of the reasons why so many people here have a small fruit en vegetable garden. Another reason is that they don’t like sitting in their gardens and they’ve got to use it for something.

Although the prices seem very high to foreigners, who calculate what it costs in euros or dollars or other currencies, Japanese people are used to it. Inflation is almost non existent here, so 10 years ago fruit was priced the same, when it was considerably cheaper when converted to other currencies in the exchange rates of that time. It’s the high exchange rate of the yen today that makes the fruit so expensive to foreigners.

Still, fruit also is relatively expensive on the domestic market when compared to other food products. In other words; in Japan an apple is worth more instant noodle cups or chocolate bars than in Europe. Hence not many people eat the two pieces of fruit every day they should.

The Doors

Today it happened again. I hit my head. I ****ing hate Japanese doors! Only children, pets and dwarfs can safely use them….and the Japanese of course. Most of them. Yesterday I saw a Japanese man of over 2 meter, his posture was really bad. Well, I don’t blame him. It’s really hard to keep a good posture in Japan, if you don’t wear an helmet.

In the apartment where we got our school now, the doors are particularly low. 180 or 175 cm I guess. They have a hard, protruding, wooden frame around them. And that hurts.

But today I found a solution. Not a final solution, but for the moment it works. At the same time it serves as something to have a laugh about with the students.

nice and soft

 

Harajuku

Harajuku station, in the popular Tokyo neighborhood, is a rather small building with wood decoration. On the backside are trees, it would perfectly fit in a small Austrian town.

Harajuku station

Harajuku station - from Wikipedia

There are lots of girls, happy, smiling girls, some of them dressed in 19th century Austrian fashion, some of them in a hurry with a serious look on their face. Pretty girls, girls thinking they are pretty but who actually are not and downright ugly girls.

A sweet smell hangs in the air, girls like candies. Everywhere are crêpe shops and cake buffets, which results in another girl variety: the obese type.

When walking through a crowded shopping street Obama’s brothers try to grab your arm to pull you into a shop. Even if I were interested, them touching me would certainly put me off. Unless you want to end up as Nicola Furlong you should keep your distance, although most of them are only a small nuisance. Most shops sell little beads and mirrors for outrageous prices, which makes me wonder if the American Natives selling their continent away were also girls.

Then there are brand label girls, underage girls and lesbian wannabe girls with ultrashort haircuts and Johnny Depp glasses.

As for the guys, I saw a few with tiny, clothes-wearing doggies. As no straight guy in his right mind would ever want to get such a dog, they must be either homosexuals or they only keep the dog to seduce girls.

This is not a game blog, but the following paragraphs will be about this, as we all find mating rituals, especially among humans, interesting.

Walking with a dog works in different ways to attract girls:

  • Little dogs with clothes are cute, and Harajuku girls like cute
  • Dogs are very expensive in Japan, only the initial purchase will set you back at least $1,500, so you must be rich
  • If you walk your dog in Harajuku, you likely live nearby. Having an apartment in central Tokyo where pets are allowed means you’re rich.
  • Having a dog means you’re not a backpacker nor an exchange student (all three guys I saw were foreigners), you must have settled down. Which means you’ll have a nice apartment in a nice place.
  • Having a dog means you have a caring personality.

If you have money and are into superficial relations then you should consider moving here, buy a dog and a D&G t-shirt and take strolls with your new animal friend in the crowded shopping street instead of in the nearby park. If you don’t want to live in Harajuku or in Japan you should try to find an hotel that allows pets and borrow/rent a dog and take strolls. You might be more successful than if you’d be clubbing every night.

On a wider street I had a break and sat down on the metal sitting bar on the side of the sidewalk. Not far away sat a Japanese youngster of about 25. Lots of people were walking by in both directions. Every time he noticed a pretty girl, alone, without girlfriends, boyfriends or parents (better safe than sorry) he got up and approaches them. Always at about 4:30/ 7:30 from the girl’s point  of view. He then followed them for about 5 seconds, smiling, talking, wouldn’t get a response and sat down again.

But hey, let’s say he approaches about 200 girls on a Sunday afternoon. Even if only one in a hundred responds, he’ll be happy. I have no clue what he was asking them. Perhaps he offered them a role in a pornographic movie, maybe he was inviting them for a cup of tea or maybe he only wanted to ask for directions. (That’s why he sat down every time again, he was lost.)

After a while an older couple sat down as well to have a rest. Just then he hit again, failed again and sat down again. The old-timers got up immediately and walked away with disapproving looks on their faces.

Well, that’s my account of a Sunday afternoon in Harajuku, Tokyo.